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The Top 3 Mistakes People Make Caring for Locs (and Micro locs) at Home

Updated: Jan 10

And What to Do Instead

Most loc issues don’t start in the salon — they start at home, with routines that sound right but quietly cause problems over time.

If you’ve ever dealt with buildup, dryness, thinning, or locs that don’t feel the way they used to, chances are one (or more) of these mistakes is involved.

This applies to traditional locs and microlocs alike.

Let’s break down the biggest issues we see in the salon — and how to fix them with intention, not extremes.

Mistake #1: Over-Shampooing or Under-Shampooing Your Locs

This is hands down the most common problem.

Over-shampooing:

  • Strips the scalp and hair of natural oils

  • Leads to chronic dryness and irritation

  • Can cause frizzing and unraveling (especially in micro locs)

Under-shampooing:

  • Allows conditioner, oils, and environmental debris to build up

  • Leads to dull, heavy locs

  • Creates scalp issues that people mistake for “dryness”

There is no universal wash schedule — it depends on your scalp, lifestyle, and products used.

What matters most is not how often you wash, but how well you cleanse.

If water does not run clear through your locs during shampooing, something is being left behind.

Mistake #2: Not Rinsing Conditioner Completely (This One Is Big)

Conditioner misuse is one of the biggest hidden causes of loc buildup — especially in micro locs.

Conditioner is not meant to live in the hair.

When conditioner is not fully rinsed out, it:

  • Gets trapped inside the loc

  • Creates cloudy or milky runoff instead of clear water

  • Leads to stiffness, odor, dullness, and long-term buildup

A clear rule:

If you still see bubbles, foam, or milky water while rinsing — you are not done.

Rinse until:

  • Water runs clear

  • Hair feels clean, not coated

  • Locs feel lighter, not slippery

🚨 If it takes a long time for water to run clear, that is often an indicator that a detox is needed — not more conditioner.

Mistake #3: Over-Oiling Without Hydrating First

Oil does not moisturize hair. Oil seals moisture.

We see many clients oiling their locs:

  • Daily

  • Or 5+ times a week

  • Without ever adding water-based hydration first

The result?

  • Hair feels greasy but dry

  • Scalp becomes itchy or inflamed

  • Locs feel heavy and dull

What hair actually needs:

  1. Water-based hydration (purified water or water-based leave-ins with amino acids)

  2. Light sealing with oil after hydration

Amino acids matter because hair is protein-based — hydration without them doesn’t fully support strength.

A Realistic At-Home Routine (Between 6-Week Appointments)

This example is for someone with established adult locs, no color, coming into the salon every 6 weeks. This is also accurate for loose hair naturals. Loose natural hair may require slightly more frequent hydration or cleansing due to increased exposure and manipulation.

Week 1: Post-Appointment Reset

  • Keep hair covered while showering

  • Sleep with satin/silk

  • Minimal touching and manipulation

  • No need to shampoo immediately unless directed

This week is about letting the work settle.

Weeks 2–5: Maintenance Phase

Hydration

  • 2–4 times per week, depending on scalp needs

  • Use purified water or a water-based spray

  • Focus on loc length and ends

Oil

  • 1–3 times per week max

  • Apply lightly after hydration

  • Focus on scalp only if needed

Cleansing

  • Shampoo as needed based on scalp

  • Rinse thoroughly until water runs clear

  • Avoid heavy conditioners unless instructed

Protection

  • Cover hair at night and during lounging

  • Reduce friction from clothing and furniture

Week 6: Prep for Appointment

  • Clean scalp if directed

  • No heavy oils or creams before service

  • Come in with hair free of buildup so the service can be effective

The Goal Isn’t “Perfect” — It’s Balanced

Healthy locs and micro locs are the result of:

  • Proper cleansing

  • Complete rinsing

  • Hydration before oil

  • Less manipulation, not more product

At Loc’d Affinity, we don’t believe in extremes — just educated, intentional care that works with your hair, not against it.

Need Help Adjusting Your Routine?

📍 Book a consultation with Loc’d Affinity

We’ll assess your locs, your scalp, and your habits — then help you fine-tune a routine that actually supports your hair between visits.

Because good hair care isn’t complicated — it’s informed.

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